Hmmm, I found myself thinking on Saturday night, sitting with a million other people at the Givenchy show under a burning oval of light in a courtyard in Paris. Hmmmmm.
I thought “Hmmm“Because of the presence of a weird quality. You see, Young Thug has an” original score “(in the words of creative director Matthew Williams), good California-kid casting (long shiny hair!), Hype-smooth products like big stompy bubbly boots and laundry bag backpacks. In other words, the show was all about the right thing for Williams’ successful live runway debut, who joined the house in the late summer of 2020 and has been churning out digital collections ever since, including for his first collection by Heji Shin. Including a lookbook was really love.
Then why did everything seem like that?Hmmmmm?
Interestingly, many of those who just watched the show on Instagram seem to have liked it. A natural fit for the Williams brand, which has been a playground for one of the leading princes in the fashion world, including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, and focused more on an elegantly old-fashioned chic under William’s predecessor, Claire Wet Keller. But personally, it was difficult to extend these clothes to the broad mood of sensuality and freedom that has pervaded not only the fashion world, but also pop culture: they didn’t have enough different ideas that they stood up to something different. The problem with cooling is that it is very easy to get cold.
There was some curiosity about collaborating with New York-based and Tennessee-born artist Josh Smith. Smith’s sunset-n-palm tree attitude and rich matis tune are a great spiritual match for Williams, who feels like a ping-pong among Californians and hard-nosed townspeople. Nowadays, however, the collaboration of fine arts seems to be declining somewhat, in order to work, the premise demands a kind of purity. Apparently, David Zuirner met Williams Smith through the gallery. (He’s also rumored to be dating Zuirner’s daughter, Marilyn.)
The next day when I went to the showroom I felt a little different. Nearby, the details are quite gorgeous, with men’s blazer-like shoulder-padded sleeves padding and a layer of rubber to reveal the cake. Some pieces even Johnny (men’s thigh-high leather boots? Honestly, okay!). And Smith Garments is good ‘gram bait, especially jeans and a turtleneck, plus a ropey handmade hoodie that looks like a lightning hoodie for an art expert. There is obviously an art basel-hopping customer for jeans painted by Josh Smith. Of course, the Givenchy Atelier is a beacon of craftsmanship, and you could say that Williams, who loves technological innovation, wears a weird new zipper, short bloomer panties, bizarre outerspace-y fabric, and a little pessimistic detail if you don’t just have a slim body. ‘Yes but the clothes will look great on you – it’s a garment for those who go through an unforgiving approach to juice (or goth lemonade and spinach. Men’s clothing is a little more forgiving, though beef hoodies and fitted jackets seemed the strongest as an original palette for accessories) .
So account for what Hmmm? Williams is clearly channeling McQueen, and he is also a longtime friend and collaborator of Kanye West. (Several other participants compared Yeezy to Season 1, with the Dreamscape-Y soundtrack on which Williams worked.) Financial or spiritual destruction always exists by threatening the work of men who have often dug up dark psychology with dramatic and drastic ways. I don’t know if Williams has to go that far. Ricardo Tiskey, Wet Keller’s predecessor, was a serious master of dark-pop fashion but always seemed to bubble enough. You don’t have to put your ghosts on the runway to move clothes. Wet Keller was much more classic – a product of the fashion system who thought and dreamed with great subtlety. Her designs, especially her men’s clothing, were a kind of precious and occasionally driven by the hunky flu. Still, he was passionate about fit and cut, and could spend just a few hours getting a pants hem or shoulder. He had the ideal of perfection in his mind, although it was about freedom rather than control.
It seemed to me that Williams believed he was wearing dark and disciplined clothing when in fact his love of control, fabric and fit and reference palette was leading him to make a gothic version of the Wet Keller method of making clothing. He is very conservative with his thinking, perhaps, and very attached to his references, which certainly seem old, especially his interest in sculptural neoprene and bonded tailoring. But she makes really awesome products আমি I’ll buy those big stomper boots and pumpkin raffia bags, and probably crazy laundry bags if there are no allergies to the logo এবং and the pieces are well made and fun to look at. The question is whether Williams Wants Running after us for fun, or something else. If this is the latter, he must be prepared for confrontation, for insult. (Her partnership with Shin suggests that she might be.) One wonders: if someone could add a little tension to her life, such as a new young stylist, an unexpected photographer, or house music from outside the Kardashian art complex, things could look completely different. . More relaxed, more personal, and perhaps most importantly, more unhinged.