To satisfy their OG, Doppiaa, which they launched in 2015, adopted some classic Italian sartorial policy. Their clothing has a refined and proportionate feel. These are made with some of the best fabrics available. And perhaps most importantly, 100% of production takes place in Italy – no easy task in today’s globalized world.
Other than that, Fracci and Carreras don’t look back too much on their parental generation. In fact, Dopia (“Double A” in Italian, in agreement with the first names of the founders) may be the only Milanese men’s clothing brand that is not above the double-breasted blazer styling plaid with hoodies. Those blazers are designed to fit seamlessly into modern life: soft and on-line, with a two-piece jacket-SSENSE choice off-the-rack we wearer and don’t complain if you want to throw it in a tote bag.
“We definitely do mono-breasted suits, but double-breasted is our choice,” Keraras said. “It’s a little more sporty, more relaxed. It is not so square. The idea is to allow the wearer the ultimate freedom to style their suit to whatever they like, a simple idea with almost universal appeal: the brand’s customers range in age from 20-something to septuagenarians. (Their parents, it turns out, approve.) “Same suit, you can wear it in different situations depending on how you combine it,” Carras said. “You can wear it with a polo, you can wear it with knitwear or a shirt, or even” – gasp! – “With a tie.”
New York City
Visiting the head office of tailoring brand Jay Moeser recently, I found something I didn’t expect: a watermelon-flavored sartorial explosion. There, I was greeted by 26-year-old Moyesa employee Chase Winfrey, who was wearing a bright green silk matka blazer and electric pink linen trousers. He looked gray like a Masters winner, spreading rumors through the boudoir of a wealthy grandmother.
I love it. Winfrey’s team reminded me of the uleiqueness and fluidity of the Gucci collection. Although the fabric of his jacket and the cut of his pants are traditional, the overall look conveys a basic attitude that felt completely new. And Muser’s work flows smoothly into a hard-core personal style, as evidenced by Winfrey and his friends, who are often seen spending the night in dinner jackets and cowboy boots, treated with New York dive bars such as Studio 54.
Jake Muser founded his brand in 2008 and has since established that the closest thing to NYC might be in the signature style of tailoring. Her suits are a “melting pot,” as she impresses: American natural shoulders, English ticket pockets, generous Italian lapels. Custom suits start at $ 2,450 and take five weeks to a small workshop in Naples. “I think we’re very good at tailoring,” Muzar said.